The magic and madness of Mugello.

It's quite simply the craziest day of the year with all the things you love and don't love about Italy crammed into 18 hours of pure mayhem. You return home exhilarated and exhausted in the same breath from a very special event - the Italian Grand Prix at Mugello.

The location of the circuit is stunning and has no equal in the 16 race MotoGP calendar. It nestles among the wooded hillsides of Tuscany high above the City of Florence.

The track meanders like a bubbling river around the contours of the valley, the problem is so do the roads leading to and from the circuit. They are not so much a meandering stream but more an overworked canal jammed with boats and people.

As the sun rises on that mellow Tuscan landscape, those narrow roads that cut through the vineyards and waving corn are the supply routes to an army on the march, albeit very slowly in some cases. The journey usually starts on car or motorcycle and ends on foot.

The problem is, where to change from horsepower to foot power. Once that decision is made to park, where often no man has ever parked before, it's down to the foot soldiers to lead the way.

Very old, not so old, middle aged, teenagers, babies in prams, grandmas, grampas, mums, dads, girlfriends and boyfriends meet and mingle on the march to the circuit. The yellow of Max Biaggi's Camel Honda team, the red of Loris Capirossi and the new blue of Valentino Rossi will merge as all the talk turns to the MotoGP race that lies ahead.

Driving through that army to that precious privileged car parking space actually inside the circuit, is fraught with the distinct possibility of running somebody over.

If you avoid a collision, don't plan any breakfast before the warm-up sessions and don't mind being told by an arm waving official that the car park that has been open for the last three days in now closed, it's a journey that tells you so much about the Italian passion and knowledge for grand prix motor cycle racing.

The grandpas and grandmas will recall glamour boy Giacomo Agostini's record breaking exploits in the sixties. Mum and Dad will bore the children with tales of Franco Uncini and Marco Lucchinelli in the early eighties while everybody will voice their opinions on the merits of Max Biaggi, Valentino Rossi and Loris Capirossi.

Once inside the front gate of the Autodromo Internazionale del Mugello, those opinions about the top three present day Italian heroes are put to the test:

Biaggi fans make their way to the fast downhill right and left hand corners at Casanova and Savelli to produce a hillside of yellow, likened to ripening corn or field of rape seed.

Less than one kilometre round the 5.245 kilometre river of tarmac, the hillside will change dramatically to blue at Arrabbiata two and Scarperia. This is hallowed ground for the Rossi fan club.

Three years ago they even built a swimming pool to welcome two members of the club who'd travelled from Hawaii. Unfortunately it was rain water that filled the pool as their hero slid out of the race in some very un-Mugello like conditions.

Almost immediately blue will switch to red as the riders brake for the Correntaio right hander. This is the territory of the Capirossi fans who celebrated victory with him four years ago when won riding the Honda Pons two-stroke NSR 500.

But if you are feeling a little weary after the long march in, spare a thought for the people who thought camping at the circuit was the better option.

Certainly a better option if you want to party all night long helped by rock bands, fireworks, plenty of alcohol and those unique to Mugello unsilenced engines that roar through the hours of darkness.

A great night of partying that trebles the sale of ear plugs in the paddock as riders try to grab a few hours sleep in those luxurious but not sound proofed motorhomes, before performing on such a volatile stage the next morning.

Although you would not have believed it possible the previous night, the noise level goes up around tenfold when the gladiators finally appear on the track for the morning warm-up.

It would be easy to imagine you are at a massive football match with the colours of the cheers of the supporters, that's until the 990cc four-strokes bark into action to remind you just why you are there.

The 125 and 250cc races provide the perfect curtain raiser for the main event, the 23 lap MotoGP race where Italian pride is at stake on and off the track. The likes of Marco Melandri, Manuel Poggiali, Roberto Locatelli, Lucio Cecchinello and Max Biaggi have secured memorable home victories in those 125 and 250cc encounters.

Last year Italian veteran Cecchinello burst into tears after an emotional victory in the 125cc race while Locatelli celebrated with his whole village situated just over the hill from the track, in 1999 and 2000.

Turn up the volume levels once more for the start of the MotoGP race and you can actually hear the noise of the crowd above the roar of those unsilenced monsters. It's an atmosphere that inspires the home riders and apart from the rain lashed event three years ago won by the Honda Pons machine of Alex Barros, it usually turns into an all Italian affair between Biaggi, Rossi and Capirossi.

World champion Rossi has won for the last two years and Capirossi in 2000. Biaggi, despite winning three 250cc Italian Grand Prix, has still to capture the ultimate prize. He returns to his homeland this year in great form after three successive podium finishes.

That passion and excitement led to track invasions which put the very future of the grand prix in jeopardy with fans spilling onto the track over the safety fences to celebrate with their heroes. Happily extra security and good sense prevailed last year and Mugello looks certain to retain its rightful place as one of the great sporting venues in the World.

Getting out of the circuit is as much fun as getting in, although after a long day in the sun tempers can become just a little bit frayed. The advice is simple. Find yourself a pizzeria, sip a cold beer and just reflect on what has been the craziest day of your year.